masterspinner wannabe

sheepless in suburbia

  • sheepless in suburbia... diary of an urban shepherd

Photo Albums

  • 24
    A Good Day to Dye... 2005
  • 2148521681_654a061a94
    Barbara Walker Learn to Knit Afghan
  • 013c
    Custom Woolen Mill II
  • 7
    Custom Woolen Mills Tour
  • 07
    Garden Party -Felted hat
  • 15
    Level one silk class
  • 031 A_goods_days_work
    MSP Natural dyes Project
  • 2i
    Mudprinting with Michele Whipplinger
  • 22
    SASSY Funky Felter Day 2004
  • 052
    Sea Foam
  • Spin Into Fall 2004

Today's definition (or the gist about grist)

Grist: the size of a yarn. May be expressed as "length per unit weight" .  May be expressed as metres per kilo or yards per pound (the Encyclopedia of Handspinning - Mabel Ross).

Img_4956   Img_4958

Img_4953

In spinning, our goal is maintain a consistant grist that is suitable for the fibre / breed that we are working with. 

Determining and maintaining a suitable WPI (wraps per inch) for our yarn is also important.

To determine WPI -pull some of the spun single off the bobbin and allow it to back up on itself (to ply). To meausure WPI you can purchase a tool (photo left - Edward's spindle shop) or make your own (a ruler will suffice). Anything that you can wrap at inch increments will work. (I admit it - I am a spoiled fine tool freak).

On further research, it is advised that you do not wrap your yarn around the wrapper - but turn the wrapper itself, drawing the yarn onto the tool. (Imagine your are bringing a fishing line in). Apparently "wrapping the yarn around" alters the amount of twist on your sample, and this will skew your results.  Once you have your yarn nicely lined up, count the number of wraps per inch. My Clun Forest sample (centre above) was 10 WPI's.

WPI Recommendations: (Patsy Zawistoski- Spinning Wool Basics & Beyond)

  • Heavy yarn < 12 WPI - may vary 2 wraps either way (greater or less than  desired wrap count)
  • Medium yarn 15 - 30 WPI may vary 4 wraps either way.
  • Fine yarn 35 - 55  WPI may vary 8 wraps either way.
  • Very fine yarns 60 or more WPI may vary 12 wraps either way.

The goal is to work on consistancy!

Once you have a WPI that you are satisfied with, make a sample card to use for further reference as you spin. (Corriedale sample - Photo Right).  Keep it with you as you spin and check your single thickness and WPI's . (TIP: Patsy notes that the lines on recipe cards are spaced at 1/4 inch increments. This is great for easy visuals).

This is how I have come to understand grist and WPI - if you have further understanding, or I have made an error, please make a comment. I would love the feedback - and am always willing to learn more).

August 05, 2006 | Permalink | Comments (1)

10 sheep breed project...

Sheepflock (So many sheep -so little time)

Well I have put my proverbial nose to the grindstone, and established some criteria for my 10 breed sheep project. After reading Valerie's blog this morning (Bird by Bird - Short assignments and first drafts) I was inspired to actually sit down and review some of the information that I learned when I took the Natural Fibre Centre (NFC) Canadian Wool Judging Certificate - Level 1 (Fibreweek - Olds College) and formalize my 10 breed project.

It was an intensive 2 days with a lot of theory and hands on fleece . It was thorough, objective, and precise.  White and Coloured fleece were judged separately. We discussed judging wool for commercial purposes and craft purposes. Personally, one fundamental mind shift that took place, was to remove my hand spinner bias and replace it with a budding judge's critical eye. Fleece needs to be judged on the merit of whether it accurately reflects the breed that it represents. Whether I personally would like to spin it or not is irrelevant. (Now there's a new concept!)

Our instructor was Morris Beauvais, who is an international Wool classer. He is from New Zealand, and reinforced the importance of looking at fleece from the commercial end. Dirty fleece, fleece with second cuts, uneven length, black hairs, tender tips etc, all impact the bottom line of how much a fleece is worth commercially. A fleece that is clean, well shirted, uniform in length, free of staining, having a nice handle, lustre and staple strength is a fleece that deserves reward.

I have revised my original 10 breed study to include what I have learned in my class:

PART ONE: The Fleece

  1. Softness /  Handle: Is it suitable for the breed? Contaminents, brittle tips, excessive greasy clumps, VM (vegetatable matter), all affect the handle of the fleece. A tactile assessment should by done at the cut end of the staple.
  2. Clean: How much VM? Sand/dirt/stains? Dags, second cuts. Excessive yolk detracts from the fleece but will wash out
  3. Lustre/brightness:  should be characteristic of the breed.
  4. Colour: If the breed standard is white, the fleece should be free of brown/black hairs or other coloured fibres. If the breed standard allows colour, then the colours should be recognised for the breed.
  5. Soundness: Tender wool is the degree to which fibres break within a staple. A break is when all fibres break across the same point of the staple. (This should be checked in at least 6 areas across the fleece).
  6. Crimp: Should be even and well defined from the butt to the tip of the staple, and carried throughout the fibre. The crimp per inch should be within the acceptable limits of the breed standard.
  7. Staple formation/ length: Is it typical for the breed?  Some breeds have a blocky staple (which is characteristic of fine wool / down wool breeds) and others have tapered long tips. Img_4873
  8. (Right)- Suffolk staple (Left) Shetland staple
  9. 8. Average fibre diameter: Although technical equipment is used to accurately determine the true micron  diameter of fleece fibres, you can (with practice) learn to assess average fibre diameter.

PART TWO: Preparation

  1. Fleece sample cleaning technique: Document dip, scour, wash. Document rationale for using the tchnique and results.
  2. Fibre Preparation: Indicate whether sample was carded, combed, flicked etc, and why the technique was used.
  3. Spinning Technique: Worsted, woollen? Why? and results.
  4. End Use Sample: Weave / Knit/ Crochet... Why I chose the techinque and satisfaction with results.

PART THREE:General Observations

Thoughts, ideas and overall impressions about working with the sample.

Well... what more can I say?

I am surrounded by many, many ,many, labeled little baggies... samples from here, there and everywhere. I have lost fleece, gained fleece, replaced fleece. Now comes the part I find most difficult ...

Sit down and start!

July 21, 2006 | Permalink | Comments (3)

Cross post...

Img_4748 If you read my Sheepless in Suburbia blog - this photo is old news. However it is also doing double duty for my Masterspinner Level 1 project, which required an end use from the handspun nature dye project.

What impressed me most, is that the purse was machine washed THREE times in HOT water in order to get it to felt adequately - with very little colour loss.

June 14, 2006 | Permalink | Comments (1)

A lesson learned...

Clun_forest_sheep_photo (Clun Forest sheep)

I am currently working on my 10 sheep breeds project. I am to document my experience with each breed sample as follows:

  • Washing - method used
  • Fibre preparation - technique used
  • Spinning technique - observations
  • General observations.

We are to include a staple, a 6 yard spun sample, and a 2" x2" sample (knit, crochet, woven etc)

We will provide information about the breed, the general fleece characteristics, etc.

I was eager to start, so I washed my sample, prepped it, and spun it up. All the while I sniffed, and wrote my "critique" of my fleece sample.

Then I did my research.

Turns out all the so called faults of my fleece are actually standard characteristics of the fleece. If I had read first and acted second, I may have appreciated the unique qualities that this fleece had to offer.

Instead of scarf, I would have thought sweater. Instead of mistaking rough to the hand, I would have marveled at the resilient sponge-y spring of the fibres.

In restrospect, in my years of spinning I have pretty much stuck with the tried and true. Fleece I thought I knew.

Lesson one - do the research!

June 01, 2006 | Permalink | Comments (0)

All about Wool: Composition, Content and Characteristics

Sheep_fleece_1 (Newly sheared Shetland fleece - April 2006 -Nier Lakes Shetland Sheep ).

For my Master spinner class, I have been reading up on wool. It never ceases to amaze me that I have been spinning for over 10 years, and never really gave any of this much thought. It just didn't seem important at the time...

I know, I know. What was I thinking?

But hey, I am reforming myself.  So I have been plowing through a few books, and here is what I have found thus far.

  • Wool is a natural insulator and can protect from temperature extremes of both heat and cold.
  • Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight without feeling damp.
  • It is more flame resistant than other fibres. It will not flare, melt or stick to the skin.

Okay that's pretty basic stuff. But here are a few things I really didn't know:

  • Each fibre follicle is composed of scales. When you rub your finger from the tip to the base of the fibre, it is rough. When you rub from base to tip, the fibre is smooth. This is highly relevant when preparing fibre for a woolen vs worsted yarn.
  • Fibre scales generate heat and dirt away from the sheep's body (so that's why fleece always looks so clean and pretty on the inside!) The scales also play a major role in wool shrinkage.
  • Long wool fibres have long thin scales with very little overlap. This makes them smooth and lustrous.
  • Fine wool fibres have an irregular scale surface, and this reflects more light. This makes the fleece less lustrous, but brighter in appearance.
  • Fibres that have medulla (air filled cells in the centre core) show up as being hairy and coarse. They do not dye readily and are generally undesirable in a handspinners fleece. "Hairy" sheep breeds  are often used for meat.
  • Each fibre sits in a tube called a follicle. There are 2 types of follicles. The primary follicle which has a sweat gland, and the secondary follicle which doesn't. Each sheep breed has a standard ratio of primary sweat glands to secondary sweat glands. The Lincoln sheep ratio is 4:1. The Merino sheep ratio is 20:1. (Ahh! so that's why merino is such a greasy fleece!)
  • Fibre fineness is determined by the micron count (a measurement used in Australia and New Zealand), which ranges between 10 - 80.  A micron is one / millionth of a metre.  Each sheep breed has a standard micron count. The lower the micron count the smaller the diameter of the fibre ( and therefore the finer the fibre). These are usually best for handspinning purposes. In Britain and the United States, fibre fineness is measured by the Bradford count. This is based on the maximum number of skeins (each 560 yards long) that can be spun from one pound of combed top. The Lincoln sheep has a Bradford count of 36 - 40 (or 38 - 36 microns). It is suitable for projects such as rugs, upholstery and rug making.  The Merino sheep has an average Bradford count of of 60 - 72 (or 24 - 18 microns).It is suitable for fine knitting type projects, such as baby clothing and shawls.
  • Staple length is an important consideration when planning your project, and considering the best way to prepare your fibre for spinning. Short staples are suitable for carding, and woolen spinning. They make soft poofy yarns.  A long staple length is more appropriately prepped by combing, and spun worsted. This would result in a flatter, smooth yarn - which is nice for pattern work (think Aran worsted yarns)
  • Crimp is the wavy pattern in the wool staple (the length of the lock). It gives the fibre its elasticity. It also suggests the amount of twist that should be added to the fibre when spinning.

That's all for today. Now I have to put the theory into practise and get spinning!

Sources:

  • Fleece in Your Hands by Beverly Horne
  • Encyclopedia of Handspinning by Mabel Ross
  • In Sheep's Clothing - A Handspinner's Guide to Wool by Nola Fournier and Jane Fournier

April 29, 2006 | Permalink | Comments (3)

Working with silk...

KoreaninsectsilkwormcoccoonsPhoto of silk cocoons.

  This class was "all about silk" and the MSW (masterspinner wannabe - who is moi) enjoyed herself immensely. I have decided that I like silk! Alot!

Cultivated silk is white. It is very fine, and comes from a silkworm called a Bombyx Mori . (This site is German? But has great photos).

Tussah silk is wild silk. It is harvested from the  large saturniid moth (Antheraea paphia), that produces a coarse brownish or yellowish silk. It is coarser to the touch than cultivated silk.

For more about my silk class see the Silk Class Album and click on the first photo.

March 19, 2006 | Permalink | Comments (1)

Selecting, storing and sorting fleece

Img_2094 Selection: Producers of handspinning fleece will often advertise their fleece as heavily skirted and free of VM.

Skirting is done to remove inferior outer edge pieces. This is often done at the time of shearing. The fleece is then rolled with in inner cut surface on the outside. It is advisable when purchasing a fleece, to request that it be unrolled so you can see the overall condition of the fleece. This allows for further inspection. Is the outside portion of the fleece matted, or excessively dirty? Vegetable matter (VM) is used to describe seeds, burrs, thistles and twigs. When purchasing a fleece for handspinning, the less VM - the better.

The fleece staple should not have a break along its staple length.  Illness, lambing, drought or other adverse conditions, can cause weakness in the fleece staple. During an educational seminar on fleece judging, Judith Mackenzie Cuin indicated a good technique for assessing a fleece for soundness, is to use the 3 tug test. Grasp the staple at either end, and give it three quick tugs. If the staple remains intact the fleece is sound. If it breaks it is called a broken fleece and is not suitable.

It is also advisable that you avoid purchasing a fleece that is discoloured or stained, as this will likely not wash out. Avoid yellow staining. If possible ask to wash a staple to see how it washes up – a clean fleece will wash up almost immediately with very little handling.

Storage:  There appears to be as many ways of storing fleece, as there are people buying them. In my own informal poll of both experienced handspinners and wool producers (Canspin – yahoo group) I was not able to determine a single common practice, other than the fleece should be protected from the elements, pests, and condensation. Each handspinner and producer had their own personal preference for fleece storage.

Some always wash their fleece before storage; others prefer to leave it unwashed. Fleece was stored in boxes, plastic bags (with holes for ventilation) in cold rooms, garages and freezers. It is safe to say however, that the longer a fleece is stored, the greater the risk for pest infestation, and deterioration from the elements.

In the Alden Amos Big Book of Handspinning, the author recommends the following:

  • Store wool clean, or as clean, spun yarn. Raw fleece ages quickly.

  • If you do store a greasy/dirty fleece, store it in cold storage.

  • Plastic bags are one of the surest ways of ruining a fleece (moths love the environment created by this).

  • Muslin bags or sheeting bags allow for ventilation. Use a choker tie to secure shut, and keep moths out. Slip a plastic food baggy over the neck (and choker) and secure it with freezer taper.

  • Don’t store wool for years and years. Rotate your stock.

Sorting: Because each section of the fleece has its own characteristics and quality, it is advisable to sort the fleece prior to spinning it. This will maintain the standard of yarn produced throughout the spinning process.

To sort a fleece, first begin by ensuring you have a large area in which to roll open your fleece. This can also be done outdoors. Unroll your fleece (tips side up - cut side down), trying to disturb the fleece as little as possible. Shearers often fold and roll the fleece in the same manner. This can make it easier to determine the orientation of the fleece (neck, sides, tail etc).

Rollfleece

(Rolled fleece drawings courtesy Canadian Co-operative Wool Growers Limited website: http://www.wool.ca )

Once you have determined the orientation of the fleece, you can begin sorting. Your handspinner fleece should already have had an initial skirting, when it was first sheared, however you may want to remove any remaining heavy, greasy, or discoloured edges that may still be attached to the fleece.

  • Img_4299_1

Neck: The neck portion of the fleece is matted and seedy.

  • Leg /Britch: The leg and britch portion (located on the buttocks hind legs). The wool here has the coarsest crimp of the fleece.

  • Shoulder and sides: This is often where the best wool of the fleece is located, with the shoulder having the finest crimp.

  • Back: Because this wool is most often exposed to the elements (wind, rain, and sun) the tips may be weakened and brittle. The back may be used for felting.

  • Belly: Although some people may use it for felting, belly wool is the least desirable section of the fleece for handspinning. It is routinely discarded on the shearing floor.

  • Haunch: The haunch sits just above the lower leg (britch) fleece and posterior to the side fleece.

The belly, neck, leg and tail are the least desirable sections of the fleece for handspinning, however may be used for reinforcing socks or felting.

Coloured fleeces: Black or coloured fleeces, can also be sorted based on colour variations that may be present within the fleece.

 

February 12, 2006 | Permalink | Comments (3)

Natural Dyes Assignment Update

Cochineal To give you an idea of how my assignment for the Natural Dyes project went, I have updated my Natural Dye Photo Album to include some of the documentation that was required. You may find it of interest.

February 01, 2006 | Permalink | Comments (0)

In the beginning...

02250022_1 (Shetland fleece from Nier Lakes Shetland Sheep )

I have been spinning for 10 years now. And generally I have been satisfied.

"It's all about the process" I said.

But as time wore on, the process became less satisfying. I seemed to produce the same old yarn all the time. Sometimes it worked -sometimes it didn't. I poo-pooed the idea of taking classes.  I kept waiting for my intuition to kick in.

"I'll never become a treadle counter" I said smugly to myself.

Well, time passes. One of the greatest things about aging,  is you decide (sometimes) to give up on preconceived ideas. Perhaps it is only after you have felted your 31st fleece, or screwed up a treasured Icelandic skein that you have babied through washing, combing and hand dyeing, that you decide it is time to move on...

Perhaps intuitive work is highly over rated. Perhaps it is misunderstood. Skill and intuition seems much more preferable to just the latter. Afterall, you wouldn't want your surgeon winging it would you?

And so with all these these thoughts, I have decided to take the Masterspinner's Certificate through Olds College. I am taking the satellite program in Calgary.

I'll keep you posted on my progress...

January 30, 2006 | Permalink | Comments (3)

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