Yesterday I handed in the last of my Level One Assignments. Mini skeins galore! Blends of cultivated silk and tussah silk. Silk brick blends and silk noil blends. Rolags and sausages, teased samples, flicked samples. Notes on sheep shearing. Pictures, glossary, bibliographies. All done. Level One was all about sheep.
And now ...
Meet one of my newest level two spinning buddies! Camel hair here I come!
(I know I just used this photo on my other blog – but for today’s subject I just couldn’t resist)
Handcarding has not really been one of my most favorite activities. Again another one of those "fibre details" I have just glossed over. (A thought: "Hmmmm I don't really know how to card very well" ergo "I don't like carding").
A Close Look at Hand Carders (Rita Buchanan and Dawn Leggett - Spin Off Magazine Summer 1993) compares a wide variety of hand carders available at the time. It includes all the variables to consider prior to making your hand carder purchase. First off, they advise that flat back vs curved back hand cards are purely a matter of preference, and chances are most of us purchase our cards based on someone else's (teacher, mentor, friend) preference. (I stand accused).
And of course there are different cards for different fibres. Cards with 48 tpi (teeth per square inch) are suitable for coarse fibres, or perhaps a first teasing to open a lock. 72 - 100 tpi cards are more suitable for general purpose fibres. 100 -224 tpi range is preferred for fine fibres. Cotton cards can also be used for carding fine fibres.
Some carders have staggered teeth (the wire mesh). Some are lined up in rows. Some are longer than others. Some teeth are thicker. Apparently there are even differences in where the bend in the teeth occurs: before, at, or after the centre of the teeth. (Who would have thought?)
For hand carding purposes, short fibres work best. 4 inches or less is advised. 6 inches is pushing it. Some recommend that the fibre length should not extend the length of the carding surface. In addition to opening fibre staples, cards remove VM, uniformly blend different fibres, and are excellent for colour blending.
A 
B 
C
And so the experiment begins.
I have two pair of hand cards. My original carders (C) are good quality, comfortable to hold, and a nice weight. They are curved back carders. I purchased them when I first started spinning. I based my selection the following: The store owner liked them; she said most people used them and she had them in stock. My 12 year distaste for carding began.
My second pair of hand cards (B) were purchased specifically for the purpose of experimentation. Like the aforementioned carders, they are good quality, comfortable, and of similar weight.
Both pairs are 72 tpi, with the wire mesh teeth lined up similarly. The teeth appear to be of the same thickness and length. I think I may detect a difference in the bend positioning. The teeth of my original cards have a bend at the middle. My new cards have a bend just below the centre. (I’m paying attention now!)
The main difference between the hand carders (A) is that my new carders are flat backed.
In reviewing the carding techniques presented in Mabel Ross's DVD (Handspinning Advanced Techniques) and Patsy Zawistoski's DVD (Spinning Wool - Basics and Beyond) I see two differences. Mabel uses flat back hand cards and uses a sweeping motion when carding. Patsy has curved back hand cards and uses a "nibble" motion- picking her way up the stationary card. I was taught the latter technique and have never really enjoyed it much.
When making my latest purchase, I was careful to check that the flat back carders actually had a flat carding surface. Some flat backed carders are still curved carders. This is the result of padding being layered under the carding surface itself.
While doing my inspections it was suggested to me (different store, different owner) that “most people buy the curved carders.” (Indeed, the customer before me had just walked out with a pair). Ahhh! I decided I would be remiss not to share my vast amounts of theoretical knowledge I had gleaned over the past few weeks. And so I did. Much to the chagrin of the shopkeeper.
And so I have been experimenting. I have brushed, and stroked, smacked, flicked, swept and nibbled. Mabel and Patsy would be proud. I am making both rolags (top) and sausages (bottom).
Fibres rolled into long rolags (rolled off the carders lengthwise top to bottom) create "woolen prepared" fibres arranged in a circular spiraling format. Fibres rolled into little sausages (rolled off the carders width wise from side to side) create "worsted prepared" fibre that is arranged in a parallel fashion. Alden Amos prefers to call this a “somewhat worsted” fibre.
Here are a few helpful carding hints from Beverly Horne (Fleece In your Hands - pg 21) :
· Your rolag should resemble a hollow tube with air rolled into it.. It should not be a solid mass of rolled wool.
· Establish a rhythm when carding and remember pressure is not required – let the carders do the work
· Brush rather than pull through the fibres. The latter can break fine fibres
· The wire mesh on the carders should suit the fleece – fine mesh for fine fibres, coarser mesh for stronger fibres.
And so here we are.
Curved back vs Flat backed carders? As Buchanan and Leggett are quick to point out "Get out of the way if your hear two spinners arguing about which is better. People have strong opinions on this topic! Both styles work in the hands of their advocates..."
I have decided that my preference is for the flat backed carders. Hands down. Perhaps I’m not coordinated enough for the elbow flapping, wrist snapping, nibble technique that I have been trying to perfect all these years. I have said goodbye to noils created by shredding my fibre to bits, and doffing fibre from one card to the other is my new love … yikes! Did I really say the “L” word?
I am currently splitting my work between level one and level two. In level two I am required to write ten (yes ten!)book reports.
I have had this book (Alden Amos Big Book of Handspinning) for quite awhile now. I have heard both bricks and bouquets. I am sad to say that I let one brief encounter with the book sully my opinion. I was looking for information on washing fleece (level one assignment) and found an enormous amount of information in the BBB ( I am now calling it the Big Blue Book as I keep screwing up Alden's first and last name - Amos? Alden?).
I did not like Alden's reference to the usefulness of "spinning in the grease" (page 44 bottom italics). I got my niddy in a noddy so to speak and closed the book. Having actually returned to the "offending passage" I am not quite sure what it was that caused me such incense, unless I had just completed an especially long day of picking seeds, grass, and dags out of something in my lap. Perhaps some rare form of raw fleece hysteria had set in.
But today, I am enjoying my BBB. I am reading about hand carding (pg 64 -71). I am actually finding Amos ? Alden ? both informative and entertaining!
From Merriam Webster's Online Dictionary:
Pronunciation: 'blEt, Northern also 'blat, Southern usu 'blAt
Function: verb
Etymology: Middle English bleten, from Old English bl[AE]tan; akin to Latin flEre to weep, Old English bellan to roar -- more at BELLOW
intransitive verb
1 a : to make the natural cry of a sheep or goat; also : to utter a similar sound b : WHIMPER
2 a : to talk complainingly or with a whine b : BLATHER
transitive verb : to utter in a bleating manner
Please excuse last week's bleat - it was a moment of weakness... of self doubt. I have finished re-skeining my mini samples, and continue to knit my swatches. I have packed away my loom (I'll have no time in the near future - so why torture myself) and am viewing the Mabel Ross Advanced Spinning techniques for inspiration...
One hoof in front of the other...
Dear Instructor,
I am starting to wonder if I have bit off more than I can chew. Though I was amazingly fast out of the gate (you'll recall my Natural Dye Project, Sorting and Preparing Fleece Book) I find that the 10 Breed Sheep Project is proving to be my undoing...
Yes I have done all the research...
Yes, I have done the judging of each sample, the washing, the carding, the flicking, the spinning...
Yes, I do have them skeined.
And I have knit 3 of the 10 samples...
BUT...
I am not sure I have what it takes to be a Masterspinner. I am looking ahead... the road is looooong... very very long.
Afterall my blog is called Masterspinner wannabe...
(Lincoln)
As I set my last skein yesterday (a lustrous Lincoln) I could finally see my 10 sheep breeds project coming to an end.
The research is done. The analysis of my samples in comparison with the breed standard is done. The washing, fibre prep and spinning is done. For the first time of my spinning journey, I have kept records. Fibre prep and spinning technique decisions were based on facts- not whimsey. This completely goes against the Wannabe grain.
What's left?
Measuring out six yard skein samples. Knitting small samples. Assembling the book.
And then...
hmmm, still lot's of work to finish level one.
Well now isn't this an interesting fleece!
History: According to In Sheep's Clothing, the Jacob sheep is classified as being in the "other fleece type" section. The sheep's origins appear to be as spotty as the fleece on it's back. The breed traces back to the coloured sheep brought to Spain by the Moors, and it is thought to have been crossed with multi horn breeds from Scandinavia and Northern Scotland. Other sources state the Jacob's roots may be from the Middle East. At one point, Jacob were kept in English parks for their ornamental value.
Today it is known as a primitive, ancient breed. In North America, the Jacob sheep is on the endangered Sheep breed list. This is not the case, in the UK where the sheep have been improved to produce larger sheep and therefore more meat.
Wool Uses: The Jacob wool is used for specialty wool fabrics and knitwear. It makes excellent outerwear and blankets, and is prized by handspinners for it's unique fibre.
Fibre prep: All methods of prep are suitable for this fleece. It is interesting to note, that it is common to find several colours within a single fleece,and each possesses it's own unique characteristics. The breed standard indicates that variety within the fleece fibres is acceptable. The fibres may vary from fine to medium, with an open, lofty semi lustrous, silky handle.
Average fleece weight: 1.3 - 2.5 kg (4 - 51/2 pounds).
Crimp: moderately developed
Staple characteristics: staples are indistinct with short pointy tips.
Staple length: 8mm - 150 mm (3 - 6 inches)
Count: 48 - 56s
Microns: 33 - 26 u
Information sources:
My sample: Thus far my fleece sample was quite even, but did not meet the breed standard for it's length (Only 1 1/2 - 2 inches). It did not have a very soft handle, and I really found no areas that I would describe as being "silky" in nature. Unfortunately there were a fair number of second cuts, and the fleece sample was quite dirty, requiring several washes and rinses. It did have a wide range of colour variations - from cream, to med brown to a delicious looking dark chocolate. Unfortunately again there were tender areas in 2 of the four areas sampled. Crimp was undstinguishable.
Spinning: Because the sample fibres were so very short, I used my hand cards for prep, but again I was not pleased with my results due to the high percentage of second cuts, and still some VM that required hand picking - therefore lots of waste and not much left to work with in the end... boo! hoo!
I will post more photos after I knit up my samples...
(Update: Coincidentially, I have just discovered a nice story about a woman who raise Jacob's in the Summer 2006 Spin-Off).
Just a brief note to let you know that I am working away on my samples. 4 down, and 6 to go. My end of October deadline is fast approaching, as I am registered for level 2 (yes I am!) and I would like to have all my level one work in order and submitted.
My goal is to have all samples done to the skein stage by mid October. I will knit the samples up as I head out (via bus) to Saskatchewan (annual bus ride with mom).
Tried out my long draw skills, and turned out a fairly poor sample (not at all consistant). Will review my video again. Nothing like audio visuals!
Polypay clouds on the horizon...
Although I intend to write a more detailed account about Polypay fleece for the 10 breed project, I thought I would share a few nuggets about my experiences for far...
Because Polypay is a fine wool fleece, I decided to wash the staples in very hot water, using a variant of the three bucket technique described in In Sheep's Clothing (page 23). I locked the staples (butt ends and tips orderly) between two mesh type baskets to prevent agitation.
I was careful to line up all the butt ends, as I wanted to ensure that I was spinning each staple from the butt end first. (Yes! I really have become this anal.) There is a reason for this. Fleece fibre surfaces have scales. Spinning from the butt end flattens out the scales, and allows for better slippage as the fibres slide past each other during the drafting process. I have always been a sceptic as to whether anyone would actually notice the difference, but lo and behold... I did.
Initially I prepped a few staples with my hand cards, but found this unsatisfactory. The dog comb was better, but in the end I opted for my flicker. Only a few whacks were required to open up each staple into a beautiful fluffy cloud.
Spinning this fleece sample was a dream. I tried to maintain a consistent drafting technique, though I must admit towards the end, I played a bit with long draw.
I haven't plied yet.
Note to self: Yes... lining up the butt ends is worth the time! Small amounts go a long way so take the time to do it right the first time. Be consistent. A spinner with a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing!
